Noh robe for woman's role with design of chrysanthemums and paulownia leaves and flowers Tie-dyeing, embroidery and gold leaf imprint on white silk satin (shusu)
This Noh robe employs the nuihaku technique and is thought to have been produced in the early 17th century, in the first half of the Edo period. But room for question remains as to whether it was originally produced as a Noh costume. Extant Noh costumes which are believed to have been produced in the Momoyama period in the 16th century are considered to have been everyday clothing worn during this period, such as kosode, uchikake and suo that were adopted to theatrical use. It appears that only a very small number of garments were produced especially for use as Noh costumes.
The lower section of this garment is dyed in alternating bands of red and blue on white silk satin. In the red band, chrysanthemums are embroidered, while in the area dyed blue, crests of paulownia have been embroidered. In the upper half of the garment there are large chrysanthemums and paulownia crests also expressed using embroidery. The use of various colors and large motifs contribute to its bold effect, and it appears at first glance to be a costume designed for the Noh theatre. However, this style reflects the trend for gorgeousness seen in the Momoyama period and is considered to be related to kosode worn by nobles in the early Edo period. The paulownia leaves and flowers embroidered in three different colors, the long floats of embroidery thread, and the three-dimensional effect of the embroidery retain the flavor of the Momoyama period.




